Do Network Switches Really Improve Sound Or Is This Just Our Imagination?

If you’ve spent any time in audiophile forums, you’ve probably come across heated debates about network switches. Some swear that upgrading to an “audiophile-grade” Ethernet switch transformed their system – tighter bass, darker background, smoother highs. Others roll their eyes and say bits are bits.

So what’s the truth? Do these switches really affect sound quality, or is it just another expensive rabbit hole?

I decided to test it myself, with the same honest, no-nonsense approach I apply to everything on this site. I’m not interested in marketing language or audio voodoo. I want to know: can an Ethernet switch, which just moves digital packets around, actually change what I hear from my speakers or headphones?

Spoiler: in my setup, I heard no difference. But that doesn’t mean the topic is entirely nonsense. In this article, I’ll explain how network audio works, what’s physically possible, and where the claims about “better sound” come from. And if you’re still curious to experiment, I’ll show you a few low-risk ways to do it – without falling into the trap of overpriced audiophile gear.

How Music Streamers Use Network Data

Before we talk about switches, let’s clarify how music actually flows through your network. Whether you’re using a Raspberry Pi, a high-end streamer, or a laptop running Roon, the basic principle is the same: the device pulls audio data over your network — usually from a NAS, a streaming service like TIDAL or Qobuz, or from another server (e.g. Roon Core).

Here’s the key: audio over the network is not streamed in real time like analog audio. Instead, it’s sent in chunks, buffered in memory, and then passed to your DAC through USB, SPDIF or I2S. These digital packets are either correct or not — there’s no such thing as “slightly wrong” ones. It’s either bit-perfect, or you get dropouts and glitches.

Modern streaming protocols like RAAT (used by Roon), UPnP, or AirPlay all rely on buffer memory and error correction. That means timing doesn’t really matter at the network level — the audio device takes care of timing at the output stage. So unless your network is unstable, you’re unlikely to hear any change just by switching from one Ethernet switch to another.

So when someone says “the music sounds more relaxed” after changing a switch — it’s probably not the bits themselves. But what else could it be?

The Claims Behind Audiophile Network Switches

If you visit the websites of audiophile switch manufacturers, you’ll quickly notice a pattern. They often claim that their products reduce “jitter,” “lower noise floor,” and improve timing or “musicality.” Some go as far as saying you’ll hear a blacker background, deeper soundstage, or more emotional impact.

But here’s the issue: in most digital audio systems, the network doesn’t directly handle timing. Your DAC, especially if it’s asynchronous USB, generates its own clock. The switch just passes along packets of data. These packets are buffered and processed before they ever become sound. That makes most of the typical “jitter” claims technically questionable, at best.

Still, some users do report audible changes. So where could that come from? Some theories include:

• Electrical noise over Ethernet cabling (especially with grounded devices)
• Improved power supply quality on high-end switches
• Reduced EMI inside well-shielded switches

So maybe the switch isn’t changing the audio signal directly, but it could be influencing your DAC or streamer by radiating less noise into the system. That’s plausible but in my testing, even that didn’t make a meaningful difference.

What Actually Matters in a Network Setup

Let’s set the hype aside and talk about what might realistically affect sound in a network-based music system. It’s not the data transmission itself-  that’s already buffered and error-corrected. But in certain edge cases, electrical noise could play a role.

Here are a few factors that could make a small difference, depending on your setup:

• Ground loops & electrical noise: If your streamer or DAC is connected to a noisy Ethernet line and shares ground with other gear, you might introduce interference into your system — especially with poorly isolated USB DACs.
• Switch power supply: Many cheap switches use noisy switching power supplies. Swapping in a low-noise linear power supply (LPS) might lower EM interference — not to improve bits, but to avoid polluting nearby analog circuits.
• Shielding & layout: A well-built switch with internal shielding and clean PCB layout might radiate less noise into your audio gear, particularly if it’s physically close.

But these are subtle factors. If your DAC is well-designed and your USB implementation is solid, the odds of hearing any difference are slim. In my case, switching from a basic TP-Link switch to a “audiophile” model with a linear PSU made exactly zero audible impact, even with resolving gear and quiet listening conditions.

My Personal Testing – and What I Heard (or Didn’t)

I’ve tested this stuff myself because I wanted to see if there was anything to it. I set up comparisons using a standard TP-Link switch, a basic Netgear model, and a more “audiophile” option powered by a linear PSU. All switches were connected to my music server (Intel NUC running Roon Core) and my streamer (Raspberry Pi and Eversolo DMP-A8 (advertisement link)).

Listening was done via my STAX (advertisement link) headphones and Elac Vela 404 speakers, using music I know well — high-res tracks from Qobuz, local FLAC files, and Roon streams. I listened critically, switching between setups and paying attention to background noise, soundstage, and tonal balance.

And the result? Nothing. Absolutely no audible difference. I didn’t hear a quieter background, a “smoother” treble, or more texture in vocals. The music sounded identical, regardless of which switch was in place.

That’s not to say differences are impossible — maybe in more electrically noisy environments or with extremely sensitive gear, there’s a measurable effect. But in a well-constructed system with decent grounding and quality components, my ears (and logic) say: save your money.

If You Still Want to Try One – Best Value Picks

Even though I didn’t hear a difference myself, I understand the curiosity. Sometimes, you just want to try things for yourself — and that’s totally fine. If you’re in that camp, here are some reasonable, lower-risk options that won’t drain your wallet.

• iFi LAN iSilencer – A small galvanic isolator for Ethernet that filters noise and ground hum. It’s plug-and-play and can be used with any streamer. I didn’t hear a difference, but some users swear by it. Worth trying for the curious.
• TP-Link TL-SG105 or Netgear GS105 – Basic unmanaged switches that work reliably. If you pair them with a quiet 5V linear power supply, you get a low-noise solution for under €100 total.
• Sbooster 5V LPS or iFi iPower X – If you already own a basic switch, upgrading the PSU might reduce EMI slightly. Again, don’t expect miracles — but it’s a cleaner approach than dropping $500 on a “high-end” switch.
• Audiophile Switches (if you’re brave): Products like the Silent Angel Bonn N8 or UpTone EtherREGEN are often mentioned. I’ve briefly tested one of them and… heard nothing different. Still, some people enjoy the peace of mind or build quality.

If you do want to experiment, keep your expectations grounded — and always make sure you can return the item if it doesn’t work for you.

Final Thoughts – What to Improve First Instead

If you’ve made it this far, you probably already know what I’m going to say: audiophile switches are one of the least effective places to spend your money if you care about actual sound improvements.

There’s nothing wrong with trying one as long as you’re aware that the differences may be zero. And in most well-designed setups, that’s exactly what I heard: zero. No darker background, no richer mids, no added emotion. Just the same music, sounding great… or not… depending on the recording.

If you’re chasing better sound, here’s what actually made a difference in my system:

• Upgrading my DAC (real improvements in noise floor and detail)
• Using a better linear power supply with my Raspberry Pi
• Improving room acoustics and speaker placement
• Isolating USB power with a dedicated USB filter

In short: improve your signal chain, not your Ethernet switch. Focus on room acoustics, speaker placement, or a better DAC. Your switch probably isn’t the bottleneck.